Were always trying to come up with inventive ways to get a tight registration on multi color jobs.  I find it quite annoying to be constantly adjusting my gauge pins, moving the plate, taking apart the chase, adjusting furniture etc, etc, (you all know the drill).  The closest way I found was using transparencies which I wrote about in an earlier post Multicolor Registration, but we have something in the works that might be alot easier when using photopolymer plates. 

We are using something called a translation stage which consist of a base and a platform and the platform moves in extremely small and precise increments, I’m talking microns.  What we came up with is to mount a piece of .25 inch aluminum to the platform of a translation stage, thus making it ”type high” when a sticky back photopolymer plate is added. You can actually take the whole translation stage and lock that up in your chase.  When you need to make fine adjustments you need to turn the dial on the translation stage and you can move the platform right to left without ever adjusting your gauge pins.

When we finalize the details to this, I will be sure to share it with everyone.  In the meantime, if you have no idea what a translation stage is or what I’m talking about, here is a picture for your reference.  For those who have an idea of what I’m talking about, I would love to hear your ideas on this.  If anyone is interested in this please contact us at contact@dolcepress.com.

Gilding as defined in Wikipedia is the art of applying a thin layer of gold, simulated gold, or other metal to a surface. Products employed may be real gold leaf ranging in karats from 9 up to 24; imitation leaf–composition gold, Dutch metal leaf, aluminum leaf, copper leaf; variegated leaf, mica powders; etc.

Lately, I have been getting some requests for wedding invitaions edged in gold or silver.  Since this is quite new to me, I did some research online and this is what I came up with.  First, sandwich 100 (or however many) invitations together, using a book press or any 2 flat heavy objects.  Make sure you put a scrap piece of paper on top of the stack and one on the bottom.  Next, with a paint brush, brush glue to the edges of the paper. Once glue is applied, and almost dry I add the gold or silver leaf to the edges and lightly push down with a clean paint brush or some glassine paper if you have any.  Once dry,  remove the remaining leaf from the paper.

Here is an interesting video from Crane’s and about 4/5 way thorugh the video is a nice clip on how Crane’s creates gold edging to their paper. 

I have also heard of people painting or applying gold powder to the edges of the paper. If anyone else could share how they get gold edging on paper, that would be great!  I am always interested in learning new techniques. 

The title is pretty strange but as odd as it seems it’s very true.  I had some type that was cast “shallow” and when printing on really soft paper it was actually printing the lead as well as the type.  I know you all might be thinking ; I have to adjust my rails, I am over inking, etc etc, but that wasn’t the case because it just happened to be the letter “h” in this particular set of type (10 pt. Lydian and the defect in the type was obvious).  To solve this problem, I used a nail file to actually shave down the part of the lead that was uneven and it turned out to be a perfect solution (warning: be careful because it is easy to damage the type).  You can use sand paper, but I like the stiffness of a nail file and frankly I think it works a whole lot easier.  Plus nail files come in different diameters and shapes so im sure you can find the right one for the job.    Pictures below will show the print before and after the filing.

BEFORE FILING

 
AFTER FILING

We’re now offering special pricing on 1-color letterpress text only business cards printed on 100% white cotton paper (weight: 110#) in the following quantities:

50 cards - $50
100 cards - $80
200 cards - $130

Extras such as logos, custom artwork, or multiple colors can be added for an additional fee. Make sure to mention this post when you place your order. Please call (516-353-9284) or email for exact pricing. Shipping not included.

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We came across this scan of the original operating instructions and parts list for the Chandler & Price Pilot Press (New Style). While the Pilot and other tabletop presses are simple in design and operation as compared to other presses, the manual can be helpful is you are looking for missing parts or trying to assemble/disassemble the press.

The manual contains detailed instructions on the assembly of the Pilot and also how to set the press up to print. In addition, there are also several detailed schematics of the press that label every part with an identification number and name.

You can download the file here: C&P Pilot Manual

If you’ve got a Pilot, good luck with it, its a great machine! Even if you don’t have a Pilot, the manual is an interesting read.

I finally got around to sorting some of my pied type yesterday and noticed I had these cool vintage cuts in a box.  What I found interesting was that alot of them were company logos such as Chevrolet, Roebuck & Co. (before it became Sears), Beechnut, etc.  Here are a few from the box.

Update: You can now purchase DELTA Clean Max online at TersusDirect.com. More information is below.

Peter at Tersus Chemical had sent me some samples of their new product Delta Clean Max which is a press wash that has low Volatile Organic Compounds (V.O.C.s) and the scent is not as strong as most commerical blanket washes.

I was happy to get my small sample of Delta Clean Max the other day, and had some printing to do today so I figured I’d give it a try. Currently I am using Varn’s California Wash, which is another low V.O.C. wash. Below is a picture of the ink disk from my C&P Pilot. On the left I used California wash and on the right I used Delta Max wash. After directly applying the chemicals I wipped each side once. The Delta Max did a great job of removing the black ink and only a few more swipes removed the ink completely from the right side of the disk.

I can’t wait for the wash to be on the market, once I get more information from Peter about pricing and distribution I’ll be sure to post about it.

Update:  Tersus Chemical is now selling DELTA Clean Max online. For a limited time only, they are selling 1 pint containers for $8 plus shipping. In addition, when you purchase the pint size bottle, you also get a 10% discount on all subsequent orders of gallon quantities or more. They also plan to start selling a 1 gallon container beginning March 2008 for $28.

Lettra - American - It is 100% cotton, soft and luxurious to the touch, yet strong and stable on press. Lettra’s distinct “letterpress finish” is rare and engaging in a machine-made, commercial paper. Lettra is uncalendered, meaning that it is not smoothed in the calender stacks on the papermaking machine. The cotton fibers are relatively uncompacted, so the sheet feels extra-bulky, even fluffy. Cotton fibers are naturally long and strong, but also non-rigid. Lettra is made without surface sizing to maximize its suppleness and its receptiveness to a deep impression.

Arturo - Italian - a mouldmade paper of 100% high alpha cellulose made by the historic Cartiera Magnani Mill - available in a range of sizes, including square sheets, all with deckled edges and matching envelopes.

Somerset- British - a mouldmade paper of 100% cotton produced in Wells, England- available in a range of sizes.

Arches - French- Mouldmade in France specifically for printmaking and publishing, Arches Cover has a pronounced grain, two watermarks, and two natural deckle edges. It works beautifully for any printmaking process, or as a drawing surface.  Arches Cover is 100% cotton fiber, acid-free, pH neutral, internally sized and buffered. 

ColorPlan- British - a machine made paper of 100% Virgin ECF Fibre produced by GFSmith, available in a range of weights and sizes, including square sheets.  The great part about this paper is that it comes in 20 different colors.

Crane Palette - American - The 100 percent cotton Palette collection provides an unrivaled selection of colors, weights and finishes, never before found in a text and cover line. The three whites coordinate with Crane’s Crest and Crane’s Choice and the distinctive colors range from soft pastels to intense, saturated darks. Comes in 18 different colors.

Fabriano Medioevalis - Italian - Crafted in Italy by the Fabriano mill, this soft white deckle-edged stationery adds a distinctive flair to letters, invitations, and announcements.

Magnani Pescia - Italian - Paper is mouldmade in Italy from 100% cotton. It is chlorine-free, with neutral pH. Each sheet has two natural deckles and two tear deckles. 300 gsm.  

Rives - French - This very popular, fine printmaking paper is mouldmade in France and has a smooth, absorbent surface. Rives Papers, made of 100% cotton, are acid free, soft-sized, and buffered.  Each sheet is watermarked and has two natural deckles and two tear deckled edges. Three weights available.

Oyster Card - Dutch -a machine made paper of 100% paste board in a range of weights and sizes, including 450 gsm, 600 gsm and the super thick 750 gsm. Perfect for hand gilded beveled edges.

Canson Edition - American - These are luxurious 100% cotton, acid-free papers that deliver excellent performance with a variety of media. Each sheet features two deckled edges and two distinct surfaces, one smooth and one slightly textured.

If anyone uses other papers for letterpress, please share.  I would love to see what other printers and hobbyists are using.

They say most people are either left brained or right; meaning while some people are creative, others are scientific.  I consider myself pretty lucky because I have the best of both worlds.  My boyfriend is a biomedical engineer and I am a graphic designer/printer.  He has been so amazing and helpful and really has been an intricate part of this company.  Yesterday, he bought me a digital vernier caliper because I didnt have one and thought it would be useful in the press shop.  It turns out that he was right (don’t tell him I said so!) and I now love using this tool.  It allows me to measure everything from paper thickness to type high and so many other things.  The best part about the caliper is that it is digital and super precise.  If you want to know more about this tool, I have added some additional information and some pictures of my caliper.  Whether you have a small or large press shop and do not have a caliper, I highly recommend that you get one.

Here are pictures of my digital calipers:
 

DIGITAL CALIPER

A refinement now popular is the replacement of the analog dial with an electronic digital display. This version of the caliper allows reading the value directly from a single display. Many digital calipers can be switched between metric and imperial units. All provide for zeroing the display at any point along the slide, allowing the same sort of differential measurements as with the dial caliper but without the need to read numbers that may be upside down. Digital calipers may contain some sort of “reading hold” feature, allowing the reading of dimensions even in awkward locations where the display cannot be seen.

With all of these benefits, digital calipers have by no means replaced the dial caliper. Digital calipers typically do not have the beam structure of a dial or vernier caliper and therefore do not have the repeatability or accuracy to an amateur user. Dial calipers have the potential to last much longer with their repairability.^{[citation needed]}

Increasingly, digital calipers offer a serial data output to allow them to be interfaced with a personal computer. This means measurements can be taken and instantly stored in a spreadsheet or similar piece of software, significantly decreasing the time taken to take and record a series of measurements. The output of non-name brand calipers is usually 24 bit 90 kHz synchronous. A suitable interface to convert the output to RS232 levels and format can be built or purchased.

Like dial calipers, the slide of a digital caliper can usually be locked using a lever or thumb-screw.

Both dial and digital calipers can be used with accessories that extend their usefulness. Examples are a base that extends their usefulness as a depth gauge and a jaw attachment that allows measuring the center distance between holes.

Digital calipers contain a linear encoder. A pattern of bars is etched directly on the Printed circuit board in the slider. Under the scale of the caliper another printed circuit board also contains an etched pattern of lines. The combination of these printed circuit boards forms two variable Capacitors. As the slider moves the capacitance changes in a linear fashion and in a repeating pattern. The two capacitances are out of phase. The circuitry built into the slider counts the bars as the slider moves and does a linear interpolation based on the magnitudes of the capacitors to find the precise position of the slider.

Parts of a vernier caliper:

1. Outside jaws: used to measure external lengths
2. Inside jaws: used to measure internal lengths
3. Depth probe: used to measure depths
4. Main scale (cm)
5. Main scale (inch)
6. Vernier (cm)
7. Vernier (inch)
8. Retainer: used to block movable part to allow the easy transferring a measurement

Definition & Diagram from Wikipedia.